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Our Paris: Variations on a Theme :: Quartier By Quartier :: Quartier By Quartier :: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée

Author Topic: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée (Read 400 times)
kerouac
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Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Thread Started on May 26, 2010, 4:45pm »
One of the things that makes Paris such an admired city (I suppose) is because the urban planners have always come up with interesting ideas on how to handle development. Over the centuries, people have found a lot of the changes shocking or controversial, not the least of were those perpetrated by Baron Haussmann who bulldozed half the city to make wide boulevards so that the army could crush uprisings. People absolutely despised what he did, and yet now the Haussmann architecture is the major icon that identifies a Parisian street to people anywhere in the world (must think to do a report on the Haussmann style one of these days). The Eiffel Tower, the Centre Pompidou, the Pyramide du Louvre or the Opéra Bastille have all shocked over the years. Some have been accepted and others remain controversial.

Today’s story starts with what Parisians called the “Gare de la Bastille” but whose official name was the “Gare de Vincennes” because it was the terminus of the suburban train line that serviced Vincennes and points east. It was built in 1859 and was your standard medium-sized Parisian train station like the Gare d’Orsay (which has gone on to other occupations). Wikipedia can give you all of the bla-bla details: 30 meters wide, 250 meters long…

I never saw the station open myself, although I could have as a little boy, because it remained in service until the RER A express metro line opened in 1969 and intercepted its suburban tracks. Amazingly enough, the Bastille line operated steam engines until the day it closed. Things used to be built to last, because the steam engines used on the line were built in 1913. How times have changed!

Some of the tracks behind the station were dismantled immediately, but the station itself remained for quite some time. I never went inside, but when I moved to Paris, it still regularly hosted antique fairs and dog shows and events in a similar vein. I thought the building was totally ugly with its (now) 1950’s type façade slowly crumbling away. I’m sure I wasn’t the only one who didn’t mind when it was finally torn down in 1984 to be replaced by President Mitterrand’s new opera.

People have still not digested the style of the “new” building, but it isn’t entirely Mitterrand’s fault. Before it was completed, his socialist government was voted out of power, and the new people absolutely hated the building, but it was too late to stop it completely. So they just reduced the budget to make it cheaper and yes, now it has some netting over certain areas because it is falling apart.

Okay, who cares? This is not about the opera; this thread is about the Promenade Plantée which was created behind the opera. The first name given to the project was La Coulée Verte (“the green flow”), and one of the thoroughly valid justifications was that there was not much of interest in the 12th arrondissement and this could revitalize the area. Also there was the “problem” of the viaduct. The first part of the old rail line consisted of 72 brick arches more than a kilometer long, and just like in London and a lot of other cities, the arches were occupied by garages, cafés, shops and all sorts of things including apartments. It was all in pretty terrible condition, but evicting the 72+ tenants and destroying everything would have been a nightmare. So the idea was to renovate the viaduct and put a long skinny park on top where the rails used to be, all the way to the city limits.

And so here is the entrance to the Promenade Plantée at the Bastille end.

All along the way, there are various places (including elevators) to join or leave the “flow” and it is a very popular place for people to stroll or jog. There is no room for bikes for the first third of the way, but that is remedied for the rest of the promenade, which is more than 4 kilometers long in all.

I’ve been there a few times when I thought it was a little too crowded, but this was a holiday afternoon when I was expecting more people, and it was quite nice and relatively empty.

(end of part one)
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kerouac
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #1 on May 26, 2010, 4:46pm »
I’ve seen on a lot of travel forums that a lot of the people who discover it for the first time really like the elevated view of the streets of Paris. It makes you feel as though you have a private, secret perspective on Parisian life.

This is where everybody stops to take a photo of the irresistible police station with its statues.

I don’t know what a lot of the plants are, but I do recognize irises!

One finally reaches the end of the viaduct, but of course you don’t know that since you are on top of it and can’t see it. But there is a sudden change of scenery.

(end of part two)

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kerouac
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #2 on May 26, 2010, 4:50pm »

The walkway comes out almost at ground level and then arcs across a small park.

It was a very hot day.

Intelligent people sought the shade.

There is no way this woman could see her screen in full sunlight!

It was also lunchtime. Let’s peer down into the menu.

Just after the park there was a municipal swimming pool, which would not be open for another 45 minutes to the great disappointment of numerous people. But I continued along to the next zone. I’m sure that quite a few people think that this is the end of the Promenade Plantée, because suddenly you are at street level on a normal street and huh... what next?

On top of that, the buildings are modern and boring and what are you doing here?

I considered picking up a bike at the bike station, but then I thought it would be too much trouble to keep stopping everywhere to take pictures. So I ignored the bikes and continued forward to the first of several railway tunnels.

At the other end, bicycles and pedestrians take completely different paths.

There was a mysterious alternate tunnel that was closed.

The next section was a lot less like a park and more like a forest, and it was perfect for a leisurely walk on such a hot day.

(end of part three)

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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #3 on May 26, 2010, 4:51pm »
This is definitely on my list for our fall visit. Thanks for the pictures, Kerouac!
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kerouac
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #4 on May 26, 2010, 4:53pm »
It was gloriously shady, green and cool.

Another “railway” tunnel!

Now that I was in a trench, the city was up above me.

A map was displayed along the way to show people where they were.

I emerged at street level again, and this is the only tricky area of the promenade because there are two slightly alternate routes. Stay to the one on the left! The one on the right will screw you up for sure (I started off that way at first and got completely confused.).

Back at a real intersection! What happened to the Promenade? Do not panic. Keep going straight ahead.

“They” know that just about everybody has no idea of his/her whereabouts by now, so some information is given for reassurance.

Onwards, onwards…

Almost at the end… After being in a lovely natural void, one can now hear the roar of the périphérique very close by. There is a structure to climb out of the valley for those who want to face the traffic.

A door closed off where the old rail line used to continue. Let’s take a peek.

I took the reasonable exit. Just before the end of the promenade, there is a little ramp to go up to a side street. I noticed that the gardeners out here might be taking advantage of the fact that their supervisors never drag their fat butts out this far, so they do a little creative hedge trimming.

Up this last little path…

And here is the deliverance after a long hot walk (oh, but there are water fountains along the way) – the terminus of bus line 29!

It takes you back to Bastille and on to Saint Lazare if you choose, passing the famous police station along the way…

(end)
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cigalechanta
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #5 on May 26, 2010, 8:45pm »
I was there in March but not much in bloom but I found the green houses spectacular.
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Darcy
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #6 on May 26, 2010, 10:04pm »
I hesitate to reply because I think we're not supposed to junk up this part of the forum with profusions of thanks but, THANK YOU for this wonderful photo essay. I love the Promenade Plantee but have not walked the entire length of it. Can you give us the intersection where the police station is, please? I had it but have misplaced it. Thanks.
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #7 on May 26, 2010, 10:18pm »
Looks like a wonderful place for a long relaxing walk. I love all that rich greenery, especially now that Israel is starting to dry up since our brief wet period (which was not especially wet this year ) is over.

Thanks for your lovely guided tour.
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denise
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #8 on May 27, 2010, 1:46am »
Lovely Pictures,Oh how I wish I had been reminded of this earlier on our trip.

If course I have walked the Promenade Planteee before but never gone the whole way.

My poor sore feet and legs would nor carry me that far now!

Denise
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mossie
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #9 on May 27, 2010, 8:26am »
many thanks for this Kerouac.
I knew it was an old railway track and that there had been a station where the Opera at Bastille now stands, but had no idea of the history, so thanks for that and the old pic of the station.
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jazzcat
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #10 on May 27, 2010, 3:16pm »
Wow! What a great place for a long walk. I had heard of this place but had no idea it was so long or so beautiful. Thanks for the pictures. It's definitely on the list for next year
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Happygoin
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #11 on May 28, 2010, 12:16pm »
Kerouac, what a delightful photo journey! The ridiculous part for me is that, a couple of weeks ago, I stayed in an apt almost within shouting distance of the Viaduct, and never found time to walk it. It was on my list, honest! In fact, I walked UNDER it, several times. I just found so many fun places to explore in the 12th, that I never found time to walk the promenade. But now that I am so enamored of the 12th, I will hopefully return often. Next time I'll make time for this walk. But in the meantime, thanks for the virtual substitute.
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Jody
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #12 on May 28, 2010, 3:17pm »
yes Another hit from Kerouac . We've done part of it but never the whole way. I don't know if my 70 or so year feet would make it. But it was a delight to follow you along the whole route!
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kerouac
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #13 on May 31, 2010, 12:47am »
For those of you who haven't seen it yet, it gives you an excuse to return to Paris.

The entire length is a bit over 4km, but there are hundreds of benches along the way. The Promenade Plantée also has free wifi the entire length, so you can send out your impressions on the spot!
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Katharine
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #14 on Jul 4, 2010, 4:44pm »
I walked a good bit of this tonight (the sun sets after 9:00 here now). The only reason I had to get off before the end is that my growling stomach was distracting to the other people along the walk.

This report is dead on, and the pictures are unbelievable (now that I have been). Great job, kerouac.

If you haven't been, go! Make a special trip to Paris to go. Really, it is very cool.

KH
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kerouac
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Re: Paris 12: the Promenade Plantée
« Reply #15 on Aug 12, 2010, 7:23am »
Naturally, every season makes it different, so when you go at other times of the year, parts of it can seem like a completely different walk. I might return in the autumn to take some more photos.
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